MARCELLA MONDAY: BUCCELLATO CONFIRMATION CAKE

Ciao'd while catching up on Big Little Lies.

Buccellato is a Tuscan cake that accompanies the ritual of a child's confirmation. Confirmation is the sacrament that completes the process of initiation into the Catholic community. Marcella Hazan's recipe comes from Lunigiana, an area nestled between the mountainous districts of Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna, and Liguria. She calls it "a good, simple cake." And it is. I like to serve the buccellato in the spring as an alternative to shortcake, with the first, sweet strawberries and poofs of whipped cream.  Marcella's recipe calls for mixing in a food processor. I used a mixer. 

RECIPE

Makes one 9-inch round cake (serves 8 to 10)

3 cups flour, plus flour for dusting the baking pan
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
Salt
3 large eggs
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted, plus butter for greasing the pan
The grated peel of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 cup whole milk

Turn the oven on to 350 degrees.

Smear the inside of a round 9- by 2-inch cake pan liberally with butter, sprinkle all over with flour, then turn over the pan, tapping it against a work surface to shake off excess flour. 

In a small saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Do not let it simmer. 

Combine in a mixing bowl, the flour, baking powder, and a pinch of salt. 

In a large bowl, beat the eggs and sugar until the pale yellow and fluffy. Beat in the melted butter, grated lemon zest, and the lemon juice, and continue beating. Beat in the flour mixture in three batches, alternating with the milk, beginning and ending with the flour until the batter is smooth.

Pour the batter into the pan; give the pan a shake to level off the batter; and bake in the upper middle level of the oven until the top of the cake has become colored a deep gold and a toothpick inserted into the middle comes out clean, about 50 minutes. 

Cool the cake in the pan on a rack for 10 minutes, then turn out onto the rack to cool completely. Adapted from Marcella Cucina, Marcella Hazan, HarperCollins, 1997.

ODE TO THE HEN (PLUS ROAST CHICKEN WITH ITALIAN HERBS AND LEMON)

Ciao'd while watching Chopped, the bacon edition. Yeah, I know. 

In East Cork, by the sea,

The hens, the hens, they call to me.

Leg Horn, Sussex, Barred, and Black,

As red beaks peck, orange feet tack.

Early dawn, in their Palais du Poulet,

Do they wonder what brings the day?

The sustenance of Ballymaloe,

They take and give as they go.

Eggs for breakfast, chicken for dinner,

Is the cook winner or sinner?

RECIPE

ROAST CHICKEN WITH ITALIAN HERBS AND LEMON

Come sit on the culinary therapy couch and let me talk you down from the anxiety ledge. Roasting is one of the easiest ways to cook poultry. Bring the chicken to room temperature, slather it with herbs and olive oil, and stuff it with herbs and lemon. Stick the bird in the oven, walk away, have a glass of wine, and then check its temp with an instant-read thermometer. Seriously simple! I'm serious. 

Serves 4 to 6

3- to 4-pound whole chicken
2 tablespoons chopped mixed herbs, such as rosemary, sage, and oregano
Zest of one medium lemon, finely chopped
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil (I like the Lucero Green Collection)
1 medium lemon (use the one you zested)
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
2 sprigs fresh sage
3 sprigs fresh parsley
1/2 cup white wine

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Rinse the chicken inside and out and pat dry. Place the chicken on a slightly tilted dish to let the water drain from the cavity as you prepare the rub (and then pat dry again). In a small bowl, mix the herbs, lemon zest, salt, and pepper. Add the olive oil and stir to combine.

Season the cavity of the chicken with salt and pepper. Place the chicken on a rack
(v-shaped or flat) in a roasting pan. Using a skewer or toothpick, pierce the zested lemon all over (10 to 15 places). Slip the lemon into the cavity with the rosemary, sage, and parsley sprigs. Tie the legs together with kitchen string and tuck the wing tips under the back. Slather the chicken with the herb mixture, rubbing it into the skin and cavities. Pour the wine into the pan. 

Roast the chicken until the thickest part of thigh registers 170 degrees and the juice runs clear, about 1 to 1 1/4 hours. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest 15 minutes before carving.

PANINI WITH FONTINA, SMOKED HAM, AND SAGE

Ciao'd over This Is Us.

First, I need to get something off my Italian culinary chest, and it's this: one Italian sandwich = panino. Two Italian sandwiches = panini. And please, on the Pope's zucchetto, do not ever, EVER, utter "paninis."

Now that we've cleared that up, you can join me in rolling your eyes at restaurant menus and huffing at friends who are clearly not as urbane as you. 

Panini are simply Italian sandwiches made with crusty bread such as ciabatta, michetta, or baguette, filled with deli ingredients, and toasted. Often, they are pressed on a warm grill. 

No worries if you don't have a panini press. You can grill the sandwich like an American grilled cheese or, if you want the pressed effect, use a pot lid and press the sandwich as it cooks. I make panini in a cast iron grill pan and press it with a soup pot lid once or twice as it cooks. 

Panini make a nice lunch, but they are equally delish for dinner, served with a salad or soup. Kids love the oozing melted cheese and crunchy, toasted bread but, then again, who doesn't?

RECIPE

PANINI WITH FONTINA, SMOKED HAM, AND SAGE

I love the combination of smoky ham, nutty Fontina, and earthy fresh sage melting into each other in this satisfying sandwich. Choose a crusty, country bread like ciabatta whose dense crumb will stand up admirably to the filling inside. 

Makes 4 sandwiches = 4 panini

8 large slices coarse country bread, each about 1/2-inch thick
6 ounces Fontina cheese, sliced
4 thin slices smoked ham such as Black Forest
2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage
Extra-virgin olive oil

Place four of the bread slices on a work surface. Divide the cheese evenly among them and top each with a slice of ham. Sprinkle evenly with the sage. Top with the remaining bread slices.

In a large heavy skillet over medium high heat, add enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan (if using a grill pan, brush generously with the olive oil). When the oil is hot, place the sandwiches in the pan without crowding (you may have to grill them in two batches). Cook, pressing down with a pot lid or metal spatula, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip the sandwiches and add more oil to the pan if necessary to prevent scorching (the pan should not be dry). Cook, pressing down on the sandwiches again, until golden brown on the second side, about 2 minutes more. Cut the sandwiches on the diagonal and serve at once. 

MARCELLA MONDAY: MIXED BAKED VEGETABLES

Ciao'd while watching the Red Carpet hoopla. 

Many years ago, back in the culinary land inhabited by my Italian aunts and grandmothers, "bake" applied to anything cooked in the oven. None of this "roast" and "broil" stuff. Now, "roast" applies to what happens to meat and vegetables in the oven and "bake" is about the more liquid stuff, like cake batter, that solidifies into yummy goodness.  Marcella Hazan was clearly part of my aunts' and grandmothers' squad.

Marcella calls this mix of potatoes, peppers, onions and tomatoes a "cheerful, comforting dish." She also advises that we use a green, fruity olive oil. She doesn't say why but I am guessing that this type of oil graces the vegetables rather than overwhelms them. It surely did when I made it. In fact, the beauty of this dish lies in the intermingling of the vegetables' flavors with their individual textures. 

Serves 6

4 medium boiling (waxy) potatoes, white or red
3 sweet and meaty bell peppers, red, yellow, or green
3 round tomatoes or 6 plum tomatoes, fresh, firm, and ripe
4 medium yellow onions
1/4 cup fruity olive oil, such as Lucero
1 tablespoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Cut the potatoes into wedges about 1-inch thick. Cut the peppers into lengthwise sections, following their folds. Scrape away and discard all the seeds and the pulpy core to which they are attached. Cut the tomatoes into 6 to 8 wedge-shaped sections. If you are using plum tomatoes, cut them in half, lengthwise. Peel the onions and cut into 4 sections each.

Place the vegetables in a large bowl. Add the olive oil, salt, and pepper and toss to coat. Put the vegetables into a baking dish in which they will fit comfortably. If they are packed too closely together, they will become soggy. 

Bake, turning every 10 minutes or so, until the potatoes are tender, about 25 to 30 minutes. If after 20 minutes you see that the tomatoes have thrown off an excessive amount of liquid, turn the oven to 450 degrees for the remaining cooking time. Do not worry if some of the vegetables become slightly charred at the edges. It is quite all right, and even desirable. 

When done, transfer the vegetables to a warm platter, using a slotted spoon. If there are any bits stuck to the sides or bottom of the baking dish, scrape them loose and add them to the platter. These are choice morsels. Serve at once. Adapted from More Classic Italian Cooking, Marcella Hazan, Knopf, 1978.

THE FIX: ROASTED TOMATO SOUP WITH RICE AND PARMESAN PARSLEY TOAST

Ciao'd over ticking another Oscar-nominated movie off my list. 

It’s raining or snowing somewhere. Roasted Tomato Soup with Rice, accompanied by Parmesan Parsley Toast, is just the ticket for keeping you warm and your stomach happy. Canned fire-roasted tomatoes make the soup quick and easy.

You’ll spend most of your time (and not a lot) making the soffritto. Soffritto is the Italian version of the French mirepoix. Both are a combination of aromatics such as celery, carrot, and onion that form the flavor foundation for the soup. The vegetables in the soffritto should be finely chopped so they cook, or should I say, almost melt into the oil.  Begin with a cold pan and an ample amount of olive oil. Add the vegetables, turn the heat to medium, and cook slowly. It’s perfectly fine to add complementary flavors to the soffritto such as garlic and herbs.  A splash of white wine never hurt either.

One of my favorite and most accomplished Italian cooks, Emiko Davies, has a great piece about soffritto on her blog. It’s informative and fascinating. Check it out here.

One more thing about making deeply flavored, satisfying soup: the pot you cook it in counts. I am partial to enameled cast iron for its ability to hold the gentle heat that facilitates a meltingly rich soffritto and a soft simmer. Plus, it looks great, goes from stovetop to table, and YES! enameled cast iron is super easy to clean. I am partial to the Staub 5-quart Cocotte. The lid fits snugly and the wide handles make it easy to grip with dishtowels (what I use) or oven mitts. This is not a plug for Staub. Well I guess it is, but it’s on me. No $$ changed hands. If you want to learn more, visit Staub.

RECIPE

ROASTED TOMATO SOUP WITH RICE AND PARMESAN TOAST

This is a chunky tomato soup with pleasing textures gleaned from the diced tomatoes and rice. The fire-roasted tomatoes add a pleasant depth of flavor. 

Serves 4

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 celery rib, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 sprigs fresh rosemary, about 3 inches each
3 large leaves fresh sage
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1/4 cup red wine
one 14-ounce can fire-roasted tomatoes
Dash or two of red pepper (optional)
4 cups chicken stock
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup rice
Handful chopped fresh parsley or chopped fresh basil

Parmesan Parsley Toast
4 slices Italian bread, about 1/2-inch each
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Place the olive oil, onion, carrot, celery, garlic, rosemary, and sage in a large, heavy pot over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. 

Increase the heat to high. Add the tomato paste and red wine. Once the red wine has just about evaporated, add the tomatoes and chicken stock. Bring to boil, lower the heat, add the rice and simmer until the rice is just tender, 15 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a small bowl, use a fork to mash the butter, Parmesan cheese, parsley, and black pepper. Spread evenly on each slice of bread. Place on a baking sheet and bake on the middle rack of the oven until the edges are crispy and the cheese is melted, about 10 minutes. 

Remove the rosemary sprigs and sage leaves from the soup. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Add the parsley or basil (and a splash of wine, if you like) and serve along with the Parmesan Parsley Toast. If not serving with the toast, pass Parmesan at the table.

MARCELLA MONDAY: PAN-ROASTED SPARERIBS, TREVISO STYLE

Ciao'd while watching Moonstruck and sipping Amarone. Cuz, yeah, Italian.

Marcella Hazan was a master (mistress) at transforming a few, simple ingredients into remarkably good food. This recipe, published in 1978 in her book More Classic Italian Cooking, may be even more relevant in these crazy, time-pressed times. 

Marcella described this recipe as "succulent and expansive." The ribs are quickly browned in olive oil, then showered with sage and garlic, and drizzled with white wine. They are pan-roasted which translates to a slow cook in a covered pan without additional liquid. Once the ribs are removed from the pan, pour the cooking juices over mashed potatoes or polenta and serve along with the ribs.

The recipe, which was given to Marcella by her assistant, is a specialty of la cucina trevigiana, hence the "Treviso Style" descriptor. In Marcella's words, the ribs are "deeply warming and most satisfying." They are! 

RECIPE

PAN-ROASTED SPARERIBS, TREVISO STYLE

To develop the golden-brown color and light crust that seals the moisture in the spareribs, dry them well and do not crowd them in the pan. 

Serves 4

1/4 cup vegetable oil (I use olive oil)
3-pound rack of pork spareribs, cut into single ribs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced very thin
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage, or 2 teaspoons dried sage
1 cup dry white wine

Choose a saute pan large enough accommodate the spareribs without crowding. Put in the oil and turn the heat onto medium-high.

Season the spareribs with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, put them in the pan and brown them on all sides. Add the garlic and sage. When the garlic becomes lightly colored, add the wine, raise the heat and let the wine bubble away for a few seconds.

Turn the heat down to moderate and cover the pan. Cook, turning the ribs from time to time, until the fleshiest part of the ribs is tender, about 40 minutes. 

Transfer the ribs to a warm platter. Tilt the pan and remove about one-third of the fat. Add 1/2 cup water, turn the heat to high, and scrape the residue from the bottom of the pan while boiling away the liquid. You should end up with a dark, dense sauce. Pour it over the spareribs (use a strainer if you wish to remove the garlic and sage). Serve immediately. Loosely adapted from More Classic Italian Cooking, Marcella Hazan, Knopf, 1978.