ITALIAN RED BEANS AND RICE

Ciao'd while watching Monday Night Football.

Judging from this photo, no one can resist Red Beans and Rice. Back in the day, the iconic Creole dish was made on Monday using the bone from Sunday's ham supper for flavor. As the women went about their household chores (Monday was traditionally laundry day), the beans simmered leisurely on the stove. I'm guessing that the smoky, spicy, rich aroma made their tasks more enjoyable. I know it would for me. 

What's not to like?  Earthy, creamy kidney beans, smoky, often spicy sausage, and the salty ham bone that sends a rich ripple through the dish compose a triumvirate of tasty goodness. It's the kind of dish that even when you know you should stop eating, you insert your spoon again. And again. Red Beans and Rice brings warmth to the table on a cold day. And it's just the thing to feed a crowd.

So what's up with the Italian thing? My riff on Red Beans and Rice doesn't bastardize the original version. It tilts it just a bit. Rather than the kidney beans that form the base of the southern dish, I opted for Borlotti beans. Borlotti beans are related to kidney beans so this is not much of a stretch. That said, I appreciate the Borlotti's chestnutty flavor and creaminess.  I replaced the bacon with pancetta which does take the smokiness down a notch but its quiet sweetness contributes a subtle counterpoint to the saltiness of its fellow ingredients. Basil, oregano and a generous dose of garlic round out the deliciousness. 

A word about the rice.  The bean mixture is traditionally served atop long-grained white rice. When I cook the rice, I toss it in butter with a dash of salt and pepper to lightly toast it prior to adding the liquid. Toasting refers to a light pre-cooking of the grain to enhance its flavor and aroma rather than imparting color to it.  Some of you may recognize this as a technique employed when making risotto. Italian meet Creole. It's so nice when diverse cultures can get along. 

RECIPE

ITALIAN RED BEANS AND RICE

This dish cooks at a leisurely pace but the prep is a cinch. Cook the beans until the mixture is less of a soup and more of a creamy, slightly thickened stew. If you prefer a thicker consistency, remove a cup of the beans, mash them and return to the pot. The saltiness of the meats will naturally flavor the beans. Wait until the end of cooking to adjust the seasoning, if needed. 

Serves 6 to 8

1 pound dried Borlotti beans
2 tablespoons olive oil
3/4 pound smoked sausage, such as Andouille, cut into 1-inch slices
1/4 pound diced pancetta
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
1 green bell pepper, chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
1 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 bay leaves
1 ham hock, about 1 to 1 1/2 pounds
Kosher salt, to taste
Chopped green onions or parsley, for garnish
6 to 8 cups hot, cooked long-grain rice

Rinse beans, place in a large deep pot, cover with water by two inches and bring to a boil. Cook for 5 minutes, cover, remove from the heat and soak 1 hour. Drain.

In the same pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook until browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat is rendered. Add the onion, celery and bell pepper and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic, black pepper, and the red pepper, if using, along with the basil, oregano and bay leaves. Cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Return the sausage to the pot along with the beans and ham hock. Add 8 cups of water. 

Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the beans are tender, about 2 hours. Remove the bay leaves and discard. Remove the ham hock, pick off the meat and add to the pot. Taste for seasoning. Serve over hot, cooked long-grain rice topped with green onions or parsley, if desired. 

THE FIX: ROASTED TOMATO SOUP WITH RICE AND PARMESAN PARSLEY TOAST

Ciao'd over ticking another Oscar-nominated movie off my list. 

It’s raining or snowing somewhere. Roasted Tomato Soup with Rice, accompanied by Parmesan Parsley Toast, is just the ticket for keeping you warm and your stomach happy. Canned fire-roasted tomatoes make the soup quick and easy.

You’ll spend most of your time (and not a lot) making the soffritto. Soffritto is the Italian version of the French mirepoix. Both are a combination of aromatics such as celery, carrot, and onion that form the flavor foundation for the soup. The vegetables in the soffritto should be finely chopped so they cook, or should I say, almost melt into the oil.  Begin with a cold pan and an ample amount of olive oil. Add the vegetables, turn the heat to medium, and cook slowly. It’s perfectly fine to add complementary flavors to the soffritto such as garlic and herbs.  A splash of white wine never hurt either.

One of my favorite and most accomplished Italian cooks, Emiko Davies, has a great piece about soffritto on her blog. It’s informative and fascinating. Check it out here.

One more thing about making deeply flavored, satisfying soup: the pot you cook it in counts. I am partial to enameled cast iron for its ability to hold the gentle heat that facilitates a meltingly rich soffritto and a soft simmer. Plus, it looks great, goes from stovetop to table, and YES! enameled cast iron is super easy to clean. I am partial to the Staub 5-quart Cocotte. The lid fits snugly and the wide handles make it easy to grip with dishtowels (what I use) or oven mitts. This is not a plug for Staub. Well I guess it is, but it’s on me. No $$ changed hands. If you want to learn more, visit Staub.

RECIPE

ROASTED TOMATO SOUP WITH RICE AND PARMESAN TOAST

This is a chunky tomato soup with pleasing textures gleaned from the diced tomatoes and rice. The fire-roasted tomatoes add a pleasant depth of flavor. 

Serves 4

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 celery rib, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 sprigs fresh rosemary, about 3 inches each
3 large leaves fresh sage
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1/4 cup red wine
one 14-ounce can fire-roasted tomatoes
Dash or two of red pepper (optional)
4 cups chicken stock
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup rice
Handful chopped fresh parsley or chopped fresh basil

Parmesan Parsley Toast
4 slices Italian bread, about 1/2-inch each
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Place the olive oil, onion, carrot, celery, garlic, rosemary, and sage in a large, heavy pot over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. 

Increase the heat to high. Add the tomato paste and red wine. Once the red wine has just about evaporated, add the tomatoes and chicken stock. Bring to boil, lower the heat, add the rice and simmer until the rice is just tender, 15 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a small bowl, use a fork to mash the butter, Parmesan cheese, parsley, and black pepper. Spread evenly on each slice of bread. Place on a baking sheet and bake on the middle rack of the oven until the edges are crispy and the cheese is melted, about 10 minutes. 

Remove the rosemary sprigs and sage leaves from the soup. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Add the parsley or basil (and a splash of wine, if you like) and serve along with the Parmesan Parsley Toast. If not serving with the toast, pass Parmesan at the table.

LOOKING FOR SIGNS (AND CHICKEN WITH RICE AND CHICKPEAS)

Ciao'd while watching the weather report. More rain. For days. 

A few days ago, plagued by a fit of indecision and doubt, I asked a question of the universe, “Let me know if what I am thinking (hoping) is the right way to proceed?” I asked for three signs. 

This morning, gazing out my kitchen window at the birds as I usually do, I saw five woodpeckers perched like soldiers in formation on my fence.  Their garnet heads bobbed and glowed above the squadron of  little mushroom-brown wrens pecking on the lawn.  Woodpeckers are known for their temerity. A sign? And, p.s., in a 5-plus expression?

Later in the morning, a squirrel flew from the Blue Spruce tree to the terrace outside the den. He (she?) hopped from planter to planter, pausing in each one to gaze, dare I say stare, at me. Even my Carolina dog, slung across a club chair to better see out the window, could not growl or bark him away.   Alighting on the last planter, the squirrel flicked his tail and, I swear to God, fixed a “let’s roll” expression on his face and launched himself at the window. Squirrels are light, swift, and agile. And clearly, determined. A sign?

So far today, the third sign has not availed itself. Maybe the moon (or a nightingale, wouldn’t that be nice?) will wake me with a message. Perhaps an owl will hoot a bon mot of wisdom from the top of the tree. Nature has an uncanny way of whispering to us if we are open to listening.  

Please enjoy this simple and satisfying Chicken with Rice and Chickpeas. It’s a one-pot meal that expresses itself honestly and deliciously. Why tackle the complex when you can cook the comforting?

RECIPE

CHICKEN WITH RICE AND CHICKPEAS

Every culture has a version of chicken with rice, led, I think, by the Spaniards. They, after all, govern the realm of paella. This dish is inspired by that savory history. In Spain, you would not likely come upon chickpeas in this dish while in Italy, you may. I like the nutty flavor and crunch they add. 

Serves 4 to 6 

4 bone-in chicken thighs
4 bone-in drumsticks
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 ounces pancetta, diced
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 ½ cups canned tomatoes, drained and chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
¼ teaspoon smoked paprika
one 14-ounce can chickpeas, drained
2 cups chicken broth
1 cup long-grain rice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

Pat the chicken dry and season with salt and pepper. In a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil. Add the chicken and cook, turning occasionally until well browned, about 8 minutes total. Transfer to a plate. Remove. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pan.

Reduce the heat to moderately low. Add the pancetta and onion to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens and becomes translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute more.

Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, smoked paprika, chickpeas, a generous dash each of salt and pepper, and broth, and bring to a simmer. Stir in the rice and arrange the chicken in an even layer. Cook, partially covered, over medium-low heat until the rice is tender and the chicken is cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.

X-RAYS, SWANS, AND MIXED GREENS AND RICE SOUP

Ciao'd while NorCali's first rain of the season chases away the pollen. 

When Tom Wolfe coined the term "social x-ray" he was referring to women of a certain age who, by sheer luck and well-honed starvation techniques, put the "skinny" in skinny designer jeans. Literally.

Truman Capote called them “swans.” If you are a Vanity Fair subscriber, you know the swans: Babe Paley, Lee Radziwill, Slim Keith (seriously, even the name?), Marea Agnelli. Nan Kempner was the original social x-ray, though I do not think she was a swan. We can’t have everything now, can we? 

It’s doubtful the x-ray swans exercised as is the norm for women today. They smoked instead. They were soft. They were “skinny fat,” as my husband says. I bet they were bitchy, too.  Who wouldn’t be a bitch when your daily intake consists of 3 lettuce leaves (Iceberg.  It's more water than food.) and an evening martini (with another ciggy).

Now that I have crossed the strait from youth to that certain age, I am even more dazzled by those women. A modern-day bevy of them lives in my town. Some are even my friends. To add insult to injury, these are women older than me who, barring a good soak in the fountain of youth, have most certainly gone through “the change.” Yet they sport svelte carriages and lovely dispositions. They sip chardonnay. Sometimes a lot of chardonnay. I defy you to find a bloated knuckle on their bodies.  

As for me, I finally get why it’s called “the change.” My hips and I have picked up our hate-hate relationship from where we left off freshman-fifteen years ago. I’ve said “hello” to a tummy I haven’t seen since I was pregnant with my son. I can’t jumpstart my metabolism regardless of the weights I do and the dietary measures I take.

I’ve taken to wearing tunics while channeling Diana Vreeland. Capes work, too, though I’ll keep Karl Lagerfeld at bay (He’s French. They like cheese). Would it be so bad to embrace the march of time and settle into this new reality rather than fight the grueling battle of gravity and girth?

I’m a cook. That must count for something. I’ll be Ina (with all due respect and love) rather than Giada (she appears clenched and crabby). I’ll embody the “Two Fat Ladies” (Clarissa Dickson Wright and Jennifer Paterson).  They seemed to have a whole lot of fun careening towards the next buttered spatchcock chicken on their Triumph motorbike.

Alas, it’s taxing enough to discipline myself when it comes to relishing life’s riches but it’s even more wearisome to turn my backside to a world gone mad for skinny minnies.

Julia Child said it best (no surprise): “Everything in moderation…including moderation.” Let’s take that advice to heart and share a satisfying yet healthy bowl of Mixed Greens and Rice Soup.  And a hunk of crusty, country bread slathered with creamy butter and crunchy sea salt to go with it.  #dolcevitadelish!

RECIPE

MIXED GREENS AND RICE SOUP

Arborio rice, which imparts risotto with its trademark creaminess, enriches the broth in this satisfying yet healthy soup. Use any greens you have on hand, a mix or a single variety will do just fine.

Serves 4

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 ounces pancetta, cut into ¼-inch chunks
2 tablespoons minced onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 cups mixed greens (about 1 pound), such as Swiss chard, spinach, or escarole, trimmed and cut crosswise into 1-inch strips
Kosher salt
6 cups chicken broth
½ cup rice, preferably Arborio or Carnaroli
¼ cup Parmesan cheese, plus more for the table
Freshly ground black pepper

In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat, Add the pancetta and sauté for 5 minutes.  Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate.

Add the onion and sauté until golden, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the greens and a generous sprinkling of salt and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Slowly add the broth, increase the heat to medium-high, and bring to a boil. Add the rice, cover, and cook until the rice is al dente (firm to the bite), about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the Parmesan cheese. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.  Serve with more Parmesan at the table.

Note: This soup can be prepared a day ahead of serving. If you do this, don’t add the rice until you’re ready to serve it. Bring the soup to a boil, add the rice, and cook until al dente.