LOOKING FOR SIGNS (AND CHICKEN WITH RICE AND CHICKPEAS)

Ciao'd while watching the weather report. More rain. For days. 

A few days ago, plagued by a fit of indecision and doubt, I asked a question of the universe, “Let me know if what I am thinking (hoping) is the right way to proceed?” I asked for three signs. 

This morning, gazing out my kitchen window at the birds as I usually do, I saw five woodpeckers perched like soldiers in formation on my fence.  Their garnet heads bobbed and glowed above the squadron of  little mushroom-brown wrens pecking on the lawn.  Woodpeckers are known for their temerity. A sign? And, p.s., in a 5-plus expression?

Later in the morning, a squirrel flew from the Blue Spruce tree to the terrace outside the den. He (she?) hopped from planter to planter, pausing in each one to gaze, dare I say stare, at me. Even my Carolina dog, slung across a club chair to better see out the window, could not growl or bark him away.   Alighting on the last planter, the squirrel flicked his tail and, I swear to God, fixed a “let’s roll” expression on his face and launched himself at the window. Squirrels are light, swift, and agile. And clearly, determined. A sign?

So far today, the third sign has not availed itself. Maybe the moon (or a nightingale, wouldn’t that be nice?) will wake me with a message. Perhaps an owl will hoot a bon mot of wisdom from the top of the tree. Nature has an uncanny way of whispering to us if we are open to listening.  

Please enjoy this simple and satisfying Chicken with Rice and Chickpeas. It’s a one-pot meal that expresses itself honestly and deliciously. Why tackle the complex when you can cook the comforting?

RECIPE

CHICKEN WITH RICE AND CHICKPEAS

Every culture has a version of chicken with rice, led, I think, by the Spaniards. They, after all, govern the realm of paella. This dish is inspired by that savory history. In Spain, you would not likely come upon chickpeas in this dish while in Italy, you may. I like the nutty flavor and crunch they add. 

Serves 4 to 6 

4 bone-in chicken thighs
4 bone-in drumsticks
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 ounces pancetta, diced
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 ½ cups canned tomatoes, drained and chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
¼ teaspoon smoked paprika
one 14-ounce can chickpeas, drained
2 cups chicken broth
1 cup long-grain rice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

Pat the chicken dry and season with salt and pepper. In a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil. Add the chicken and cook, turning occasionally until well browned, about 8 minutes total. Transfer to a plate. Remove. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pan.

Reduce the heat to moderately low. Add the pancetta and onion to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens and becomes translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute more.

Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, smoked paprika, chickpeas, a generous dash each of salt and pepper, and broth, and bring to a simmer. Stir in the rice and arrange the chicken in an even layer. Cook, partially covered, over medium-low heat until the rice is tender and the chicken is cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.

THE FIX: TORTELLINI WITH LEMON-BASIL SAUCE

Ciao'd while trying not to eat my son's Valentine's Day chocolate.

RECIPE

TORTELLINI WITH LEMON-BASIL SAUCE

I like to serve this sprightly pasta dish with its bright, sunny flavor when the day is rainy or snowy or grey. It’s a pick-me-up in the most delicious way. Tortellini can be had in many flavors. Choose your favorite.

Serves 4

1 pound (16 ounces) fresh or frozen tortellini
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large lemon, zested and juiced
¼ cup minced fresh basil
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for passing at the table

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the tortellini according to package directions.

As the tortellini cooks, melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the lemon zest and basil and stir to mix. Drain the tortellini and add to the butter mixture along with the lemon juice. Toss to coat.  Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with the Parmesan.

MARCELLA MONDAY:BAKED SLICED POTATOES WITH MOZZARELLA AND PARMESAN

Ciao'd after what seems like 40 days of rain. Cue Noah

Revelation. Even Marcella Hazan, the doyenne, the principessa of Italian cooking, plucked recipes from others. Marcella, like me, routinely inquired of both friends and strangers, "What did you cook last night?" "What are you cooking tonight?" I ask these questions at the meat counter, in front of the tomato stall at the farmer's market, on the tennis court, and when I'm texting with friends. It is an illuminating exercise.  Some cooks will engage rhapsodically with whispers of spices (usually curry or cilantro) and the other I-need-to-cook cooks will shrug and nod to the chicken or ground beef. 

When Marcella asked the "what did you" and "what are you" question to her mom's cleaning woman, Elisa, the cleaning woman exclaimed, " Patate maritate."  Married potatoes. Marcella said, "Married to whom?" And Elisa, God bless her, said "Mozzarella." 

RECIPE

BAKED SLICED POTATOES WITH MOZZARELLA AND PARMESAN

If you're doing the meatless Monday or any day meatless thing, this recipe is an ideal main course. If you prefer to serve the potatoes as a side, this dish marries well with roast or grilled poultry and meats. The potatoes should be sliced thinly. Either use a mandoline or a sharp knife. 

Serves 4

1 pound boiling potatoes
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley
Freshly ground black pepper
3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Kosher salt
5 tablespoons fine, dry, unflavored bread crumbs
10 ounces whole-milk mozzarella, chopped fine or grated on a grater's largest holes
 

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Cut the potatoes into very thin slices. Put the slices in a bowl and toss them with two tablespoons of the olive oil. 

In a small bowl, mix the garlic, parsley, a generous dash or two of pepper, and the Parmesan. Sprinkle the potatoes with salt and toss them to mix. 

Grease the bottom and sides of a 2-quart baking dish and sprinkle 3 tablespoons of the bread crumbs on the bottom. Cover the bottom of the baking dish with one-quarter of the potatoes, overlapping them slightly. Spread one-third of the Parmesan mixture over the potatoes, and over this sprinkle one-third of the mozzarella. Repeat two more times, ending with a layer of potatoes. Top with the remaining bread crumbs and drizzle with the remaining olive oil. 

Bake until the potatoes are tender, about 50 to 60 minutes. Remove from the oven and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. Adapted from Marcella Hazan, Marcella's Italian Kitchen, Knopf, 1986. 

VALENTINE'S DAY PORK WITH A BLACKBERRY BALSAMIC KISS

Ciao'd while listening to Van Morrison in a downpour. Oh, the water. 

“It doesn’t look like vinegar, it looks like hair tonic.”  Chuck Williams, founder of Williams-Sonoma, uttered these auspicious words when he happened upon balsamic vinegar (aceto balsamico) on a visit to Italy in the mid-1970s. His curiosity besting the form is function message of the bottle, Chuck found his way to Modena. The town, tucked into the Emilia-Romagna region, not only lays claim to Ferrari and Pavarotti but balsamic vinegar, too. Chuck finagled an introduction to Fini, one of the top balsamic vinegar producers at that time. One thing led to another and Chuck introduced balsamic vinegar to the American public in 1977. And presto! The vinegar has been a denizen of pantries ever since.

I suppose one could say balsamic vinegar flows through the veins of the Modenese. Families make their own balsamic vinegar, aging it in the eaves where the scorching summer heat promotes aging and the cold winter helps with setting and clarity.  These zealously guarded recipes are passed from generation to generation. Often, the vinegar “mother” enriches a daughter’s dowry. I know, right? In this day and age!

When I traveled with Chuck to Modena, we visited acetaias resonating with sweet-sour aromas laced with the mottled woodiness of barrels (some hundreds of years old) crafted from mulberry, acacia, cherry, juniper, and oak. We tasted the vinegar from spoons – balsamic vinegar has historically been employed as an elixir, and most lovely of all, drizzled on Parmigiano-Reggiano, another glory of the region. 

While there are as many balsamic vinegar recipes as there are families in Modena, commonalities thread through them. True balsamic vinegar starts with Trebbiano and Lambrusco grapes from Modena vineyards. The grape must, a fresh-pressed juice of grapes, skins, stems, and seeds is cooked and poured into barrels. To start the aging process, the juice is mixed with a little of last year’s balsamic. This is the “mother” I referenced above. The mother, well, shall we say gives birth to the vinegar process. But, wait, wait! The best part is that as the vinegar ages, it is decanted into a series of varietal wood barrels in different sizes, starting from large to small. The various woods imbue the vinegar with roundness and balance and the vinegar’s signature sweetness, bestowed by the ripe grapes, wafts through the acidity.  The result: a lush lucidity suspended in dark, rich, syrupy goodness.  

My friend, Liz Tagami, knows more than anybody I know (except, maybe, Chuck) about balsamic vinegar. Colleagues at Williams-Sonoma, we traveled with Chuck to Modena many times. Now, Liz is the general manager for Lucero Olive Oil, an acclaimed grower and producer of extra-virgin olive oil in Northern California. While Lucero’s olive oils are out of this world (that story another time), their balsamic vinegar, imported from Modena, natch, is superb. In a lovely nod to the perfection of balsamic vinegar on its own (which Lucero offers, too), Liz and company infuse the vinegar with fruit. Let’s just say, this technique adds even more love to the lushness.

Thinking about Valentine’s Day recipes, I experimented with Lucero’s Blackberry Red Balsamic Vinegar. The result is this super simple and #dolcevitadelish Pork Tenderloin with Blackberry Balsamic Compote. If food is the way to the heart, this is the most direct route. And p.s. why not make extra compote to bestow as Valentine gifts?

RECIPE

PORK TENDERLOIN WITH BLACKBERRY BALSAMIC COMPOTE

The sweet-tart flavor delivered by the blackberry balsamic compote complements the mild pork. Easy to prepare as a weeknight meal, this dish is pretty enough for a dinner party, too.

Serves 4 to 6

1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 pork tenderloins (1 to 1 ¼ pounds each), trimmed
2 teaspoons olive oil
Blackberry Balsamic Compote

Preheat oven to 450ºF.

In a small bowl, blend the oregano, garlic, salt and pepper.  Rub the spice mixture into the pork, pressing gently so the seasoning adheres to the tenderloins.

Brush the oil in a baking dish large enough to hold the pork without crowding and place it in the oven for 5 minutes. Remove the baking dish from the oven and place the pork in it. Return to the oven and roast 10 minutes. Turn. Roast until lightly pink in the center (internal temperature 140º to 145ºF), 10 to 15 minutes more.

Remove the pork from the oven and let the meat sit 10 minutes before cutting into ½-inch slices. Serve with the warm blackberry balsamic compote.

THE FIX: CAST-IRON STEAK WITH PESTO MASHED POTATOES

Ciao'd with hot chocolate and whipped cream.

The secret to stovetop steaks? Dry them well, season generously with salt, and cook in a super-hot pan, preferably cast-iron. Turning the steaks frequently after an initial sear develops the deep brown crust that complements the juicy tenderness of the meat inside. Pesto Mashed Potatoes, enriched with buttery, herbal flavor and a hint of garlic, bring the classic mash side dish to another #dolcevitadelish level. 

Serves 4

2 boneless beef steaks, 1- to 1 ½-inches thick (about 2 pounds total), such as New York strip, rib-eye, or hanger
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil, for brushing pan
Pesto Mashed Potatoes

Pat steaks dry with paper towels. Generously salt on both sides, and season with pepper. Place on a paper towel-lined plate and bring to room temperature, about 30 minutes.  Pat the steaks dry again. 

Place a large cast-iron or other heavy skillet over high heat. Brush the skillet lightly with olive oil. When the oil begins to smoke, add the steaks and cook without moving them, 1 minute. Flip the steaks and cook 1 minute more. Continue cooking, flipping steaks every 30 seconds. When the steaks are deep brown and crusty on each side, about 4 minutes total, check for doneness.  For medium-rare, the meat should register 120 to 125 degrees on an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the steak. (Steaks will continue cooking after being removed from the pan.)

Remove steak to a cutting board and tent lightly with foil. Let rest 5 minutes. Slice ½-inch thick on the diagonal or serve whole.  

MARCELLA MONDAY: A COUNTRY CAKE WITH FRESH PEARS

Ciao'd with a beer and chili. It's the Super Bowl, y'all.

RECIPE

A COUNTRY CAKE WITH FRESH PEARS

Marcella Hazan said, "This is so modest and elementary a cake it could almost be called naive." She's right that it's a simple, rustic dessert. It is also soooooo #dolcevitadelish. When I made the recipe, I was skeptical as the ratio of fruit to batter tipped to fruit. Would the cake be sticky and/or soggy? I should not have questioned Marcella's genius. The baked cake delivers layers of sweet pears with a custardy filling in between. It is honest and light. Serve the cake with a dollop of whipped cream and raspberries, if you wish, but it is truly perfection on its own. 

Serves 6

2 tablespoons butter, plus more for greasing the pan
1/4 cup dry, unflavored bread crumbs
2 pounds fresh pears, such as Bosc or Comice
2 large eggs
1/4 cup whole milk
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
A pinch of salt
1 cup granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

Preheat oven to 350F. 

Grease a 9-inch cake pan with butter, and sprinkle the bread crumbs on it. Turn the pan upside down, and tap it or shake it lightly to get rid of the loose crumbs. 

Peel the pears. Cut them in half, and scoop out the seeds and core. Cut them into thin slices, no more than 1-inch thick.

In a medium bowl, beat the eggs, milk, and vanilla extract to combine. Add the sugar and salt, and continue beating to mix. Add the flour, mixing it thoroughly with the other ingredients. Add the pears to the bowl, and gently stir to coat with the batter. 

Pour the cake batter into the prepared pan, leveling it off with the back of a spoon or spatula. Dot the surface with the two tablespoons of butter. 

Bake the cake in the upper level of the oven until it is set in the middle and the top is lightly browned, about 45 minutes. Remove the cake from the pan as soon as it is cool and firm. Recipe adapted from Marcella Hazan, More Classic Italian Cooking, Knopf, 1978.