ONE-POT CHICKEN WITH SWISS CHARD AND TUBETTI PASTA

Ciao'd with handfuls of white cheddar popcorn.

Friday is my day to write an essay for the blog but for the last few Fridays, I have found myself at a loss for words. Perhaps it's all the noise reverberating out there and around us. How can I get a word in edgewise? Perhaps it's the time of year, a new season and therefore, a reset for my thoughts. The winter birds are flying away and the spring birds, golden finches among them, are alighting on our feeders. I like to think that the cold weather birds have pecked my negative thoughts to carry with them as they head to points north. As for the spring birds, I hope they bring sunny optimism.

My kitchen has been a respite of late, more than usual. I am a slave to television news and talk radio. Neither is serving me well these days. I need the simple tasks of the kitchen. Chopping and dicing onions and carrots. Stirring and mixing breadcrumbs, basil, and parsley. Washing dishes and wiping counters. These actions draw a baseline of calm. 

When I cook, my brain (and ire) rests and my senses sing. The aroma of fresh garlic and basil. The song of sauteeing onions. The loveliness of glowing lemons in a white bowl. The push of the knead and the pull of shaping pizza dough. The taste, oh, the taste of so many miraculous things! Fresh-picked lettuce, grassy, green artichokes, the first asparagus. And sweet, red, ripe strawberries! 

The earth gives in equal measure. It does not judge if we're flying on the right or on the left. It does not care if we're the 1% or the 99%. It bestows its bounty on any level of cook and invites, "Do what you will with me." And anything we do is just fine.

This week, I planted my garden with warm weather deliciousness, including Swiss chard. This recipe is a harbinger of what's to come. I think you'll enjoy its simple preparation and fresh, uncomplicated flavor. 

RECIPE

ONE-POT CHICKEN WITH SWISS CHARD AND TUBETTI PASTA

Succulent chicken thighs (yes, you can use chicken breasts, if you wish), Swiss chard, and tubetti pasta cook together in one pan (easy cleanup!) for a light and bright springtime meal. If you can't find tubetti (I use De Cecco), substitute orzo or Israeli couscous.

Serves 4

2 teaspoons dried basil
1 teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 large boneless, skinless chicken thighs
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
2 large garlic cloves (or 3 small cloves), finely chopped
1 cup tubetti pasta or other small pasta such as orzo
1 bunch Swiss chard, thinly sliced (about 4 cups)
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
2 cups chicken broth
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for serving

Combine basil and thyme in a small bowl, crumbling between your fingers to release the flavor. Add the salt and pepper. Sprinkle both sides of the chicken with half the spice mixture.

In a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the chicken and cook until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and cover with foil to keep warm.

Reduce the heat to medium. Add the onion, carrot, and celery to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pan. Stir in the garlic and pasta and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add the Swiss chard, lemon zest, and remaining spice mixture; cook, stirring, until the chard just begins to wilt, 1 to 2 minutes.

Return the chicken to the pan along with any accumulated juice from the plate. Pour in the broth and lemon juice and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and cook until the chicken is cooked through and the pasta is al dente (firm to the bite), 10 to 12 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.  Serve, passing Parmesan at the table. 

THE FIX: ASPARAGUS, HAM, MUSHROOM, AND GOAT CHEESE FRITTATA

Ciao'd while sipping limoncello made by my British friend (British!), Susan. 

This frittata, bursting with spring flavors, is a super easy solution for brunch, lunch, or dinner. Add a green salad and crusty bread and the meal is complete. Omit the ham for a vegetarian version.

Serves 4

3 tablespoons olive oil
8 ounces fresh mushrooms (any variety you like), thinly sliced
10 asparagus spears, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 cup diced ham
8 large eggs
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
4 ounces goat cheese, crumbled

Preheat the broiler. In a 12-inch ovenproof or cast iron skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Toss in the asparagus and ham and cook until the asparagus is bright green and barely tender, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. 

While the vegetables are cooking, in a medium bowl whisk the eggs and thyme. Stir in the goat cheese and salt and pepper, to taste. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Pour the egg mixture into the skillet; do not stir. Cook, undisturbed, until the eggs have set and thickened and only the surface is runny,  about 5 minutes.

Put the skillet under the broiler (about 4 inches from the heat) and cook until the center is set and the top is golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the frittata from the oven and let it rest 5 minutes before serving. Loosen the frittata with a spatula and slide onto a plate. Cut in into wedges. Serve the frittata hot or at room temperature. 

OKEY DOKEY ARTICHOKEY (AND BRAISED ARTICHOKES WITH ROMANO TOPPING)

Ciao'd while the Acacia pollen flurries in the breeze.

Italians are great fans of the artichoke. During the spring, all manner of artichokes, from petite to jumbo, grasshopper green to deep violet, are piled high in farmers' markets. Nowhere is this display more dramatic than in Rome's Campo dei Fiori market. No surprise then that Carciofi alla Romana (Roman-style artichokes) has become an iconic Roman dish. During the spring, most households and restaurants prepare it. Over and over again.

The artichokes are prepared with mentuccia, a delicate wild mint native to Italy. The mint is combined with parsley and garlic and then stuffed into the artichoke's cavity. The artichokes are then braised in a blend of olive oil, white wine, and water.  It's a dish that celebrates how fresh, seasonal ingredients prepared simply can manifest absolute perfection. That's it, and that's enough.

My recipe is a riff on the Roman dish. I braise the artichokes alla Romana-style, but instead of stuffing them with herbs and garlic, I mix those ingredients with toasted breadcrumbs, chopped soppressata (a Pugliese dry-cured salami) and Pecorino-Romano cheese. I sprinkle the mixture on the artichokes before serving. Simplice è deliziosa (simple is delicious).

RECIPE

BRAISED ARTICHOKES WITH ROMANO TOPPING

A blend of white wine, parsley, mint, and garlic infuses the artichokes with a flavor that complements their grassy greenness. Before serving, the artichokes are topped with toasted breadcrumbs enriched with Pecorino-Romano cheese and soppressata, a Pugliese dry-cured salami. 

Serves 4

1 lemon
4 globe artichokes
6 tablespoons olive oil
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 cup fresh parsley leaves plus 1/4 cup chopped
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves
2 cups dry white wine
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Generous 1 cup breadcrumbs
1/4 cup grated Pecorino-Romano cheese
1/4 cup soppressata or other cured salami
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Fill a large bowl with cold water. Halve the lemon, squeeze the juice into the water, and add the lemon halves. Trim the stem of an artichoke to about 1 1/2 inches from the base. Using a vegetable peeler or paring knife, remove the stem's fibrous exterior. Remove the tough outer leavers, snapping them off at the base, until only the yellow leaves with pale green tips remain. Trim 1/4-inch off the top of the artichoke. With a a small spoon (a melon baller works great), scrape and remove the hairy choke in the center of the artichoke. Place the artichoke in the acidulated lemon water. Repeat with the remaining three artichokes.

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a saucepan large enough to hold the artichokes snugly. Add the garlic, parsley, and mint and cook, stirring, until the garlic becomes fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the wine and 2 teaspoons salt. Remove the artichokes from the water, tap on the counter to spread the leaves open, and place cut side down in the pan. Cover and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and simmer gently until the artichokes are tender. The artichokes should offer no resistance when pierced with a knife and the outer leaves should come off easily when pulled. Season the braising liquid with salt and pepper, to taste. 

Meanwhile, in a small skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the breadcrumbs and cook, stirring, until they become lightly browned. Stir in the cheese, soppressata, and remaining parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide the artichokes among 4 shallow bowls. Top with the breadcrumb mixture and spoon the braising liquid around the artichokes.  

 

THE FIX: PESTO PASTA WITH SHRIMP AND ZUCCHINI

Ciao'd while watching my version of March Madness: Tennis at Indian Wells. 

RECIPE

PESTO PASTA WITH SHRIMP AND ZUCCHINI

The sweetness of the shrimp marries deliciously with the herbal pesto and zucchini in this freshly flavored dish. It’s pretty, too! Traditionally, Parmesan cheese does not gild seafood dishes but, what the heck, I like it. 

Serves 4

1 tablespoon lemon zest
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
1 lb. medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
12 oz. bucatini or linguine pasta
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 zucchini, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1/3 cup prepared pesto (or more to taste)
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

In a small bowl, combine the lemon zest, lemon juice, chives, and shrimp; set aside.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Generously salt the boiling water and add the pasta. Cook, stirring occasionally, until just al dente (tender but firm to the bite), according to package directions. Drain, but don’t rinse, reserving about ½ cup of the cooking water.

Meanwhile, in a skillet over medium-high heat, warm the olive oil. Add the zucchini and cook, stirring occasionally, until the zucchini is almost crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Add the shrimp, red pepper, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the shrimp turn pink, about 3 to 4 minutes more. Remove from the heat and stir in the pesto. 

Add the pasta to the pesto mixture and toss to combine. Use the reserved water to loosen the sauce, if needed. Serve immediately, passing the Parmesan cheese at the table.

MARCELLA MONDAY: IN MEMORY OF CAROL FIELD, OUR ITALIAN BAKER

Ciao'd while watching the early (tennis) rounds at Indian Wells. 

The syllabus for my cooking school curriculum beaconed that on this day, we would learn "Italian Baking with Carol Field." An elegant woman with cropped hair and lively eyes stood leaning on the counter in front of the class and told stories about Italy. Carol recollected knocking on bakers' doors in the middle of the night when bakers do their baking and begging to be let in so she could watch, learn, and record recipes, some of which were centuries' old. I was riveted. But she really had me when she talked about writing, and how it important it is to share stories in ways that both inform and inspire. Indeed, in an article about Carol years later, she said that she loved to cook but it was the writing that grounded her. For this, she is my sister forevermore. 

Carol passed away a few days ago. She suffered a stroke. Her husband passed away a few weeks before her death. Married 56 years and having shared a life full of love for Italy and each other, I think she simply wanted to join him in the Italy of the afterlife. Riposare in pace, Carol. 

I am not a baker. Bread, about which Carol was an expert (check out her seminal book The Italian Baker), stung me with apprehension and fear. Many of her recipes charmed true bakers with their instructions to prepare a biga (starter) and then do this and that and more on the way to a crusty bread with spongy, chewy, airy crumb. But Carol was kind enough to include recipes that plebes like me could make successfully (and deliciously), too.

To wit, her olive bread. This recipe is from Chiavari, a town on the Ligurian coast famous for its olives. The bread is infused with olive paste which gives it an appealing richness and an interesting purplish-black hue. It smells heavenly when it's baking. The flavor is exceptional. This olive bread reminds me of the bread served in trattorias on visits to Liguria and beyond. I am always inspired by the ways seemingly simple foods make such spectacular impressions. 

My fellow novice bakers, this recipe is a can-do, I promise. Give it a try in memory of a very special woman. Carol Field, a true paisana.

RECIPE

CAROL FIELD'S OLIVE BREAD

Makes one loaf

8 oz. pitted black oil-cured olives
2 1/2 teaspoons dry yeast
1 cup plus 3 teaspoons warm water
3 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
12 to 16 pitted black olives, for garnish
1 egg white, beaten

Put the olives in a food processor (use a mini processor, if you have one) and process until smooth.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the yeast with the warm water. Let stand until creamy, about 10 minutes. Stir in the olive paste.

In a medium bowl, mix the flour and salt, and slowly stir into the yeast/olive paste. Transfer to a bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix until the dough comes together and is smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a work surface and hand knead for a few minutes. 

Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled in size, about 90 minutes.

Transfer the dough from the bowl to a work surface. Punch down and shape into an oval. Place a piece of parchment paper on top of the dough, cover with a towel, and let rise until doubled, about 45 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Push the whole olives into the dough and brush with the egg white. Line a baking sheet or baking stone with parchment paper. Slide the dough onto the parchment paper and bake for 10 minutes.  Reduce heat to 400°F and bake for 30 minutes more. Transfer the bread to a rack and let cool. Recipe adapted from Carol Field, The Italian Baker, HarperCollins, 1995.

THE FIX: QUICK AND CREAMY WHITE BEAN SOUP

Happy International Women's Day! Let's celebrate with a sip of soup. #BeBoldForChange

This is a great soup to serve as the season transitions from winter to spring. It's satisfying yet not overly heavy, with a lushness created by pureeing the beans. No heavy cream required. For a vegetarian version, delete the pancetta, and substitute vegetable broth for the chicken stock.

Serves 4 to 6

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 ounces chopped pancetta or bacon (about ¼ cup)
½ medium onion, finely chopped
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 cans (each 15 oz.) cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
5 cups chicken stock
1 bay leaf
2 generous handfuls fresh spinach leaves
½ cup grated Parmesan
Finely chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

In a 3 1/2-quart Dutch oven over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and the pancetta is just crispy, about 5 minutes. Add the onion, carrot, celery and sage, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables soften, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the cannellini beans, broth, and bay leaf and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low, cover and cook 10 minutes more.

Remove the pan from the heat. Discard the bay leaf. Using an immersion blender, puree the soup until smooth. Alternatively, puree the soup in batches in a blender. Return the pan to the heat and stir in the spinach. Cook until the spinach leaves wilt, about 2 minutes. Stir in the cheese and season with salt and black pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls and drizzle with olive oil. Garnish with the parsley. Serve at once.